Rørvik to Torghatten and entering troll country!

10/6/25 - 12/6/25

Rørvik is an incredibly well provisioned port, that provides excellent facilities for sailors as a pit-stop on their way north.  It is the largest port facility in central Norway and can cater for the smallest to the largest of sea-going vessels. Whilst the population of Rørvik is only just over 3,700, it has several large and well-stocked supermarkets, all within a mile from the marina.  In addition, the facilities at the marina are excellent and we enjoyed our best showers of the journey yet!  (Judging categories: temperature - perfect, stream - strong, cleanliness - immaculate, modernity - very, space to put stuff - ledges, hooks, ample room in the shower, and lastly cost - less than £2 for unlimited hot water.  All in all - utter luxury!!)

Rørvik marina, Evolene on the left

We stayed overnight and long enough to do the usual turnaround in boat prep and take a lovely evening wander ashore, marvelling at the black-legged kittiwakes nesting on precarious rooftops and watching an otter playing just outside the harbour. 

Kittiwakes 

As we set off the following morning, Norway tested its national alert system.  Both our phones alarmed with concise and informative text messages, and long blasts of the municipal siren sounded across the water from the town.  All very effective and efficient, reassuring but hopefully not ever required.

The next two days were complete contrasts in sailing terms but both still delightful.  The first day provided our best sailing conditions yet.  The wind was steady, seas flat and we enjoyed a great 'reach' (when the wind is coming from the beam, ie at right angles to the boat) all the way to our anchorage for the evening on the island of Leka (65° 05.2N, 011° 43.8E), only motoring for about 30 minutes to get out of port and into the anchorage.  We had a short walk ashore and commented that it reminded us of Gigha back on the Scottish west coast.

Champagne sailing to Leka

Leka anchorage

The second day, in contrast, provided no wind and was a steady motor to our current anchorage, 23 miles further up the coast, in Torghatten (65° 24.7N, 012° 07.0E).  However, the sun was out both days, and whilst the weather is still cool, the warmth definitely builds during the day, and the landscape is steadily growing in magnitude!

Torghatten is a fun stop off for exploring and the island is part of the Trollfjell UNESCO Global Geopark, an initiative that is seeking to manage the impressive geological heritage of this area for future generations, 'facilitating responsible local development and sustainable geotourism'.  

And we encountered our first troll legend!  Mount Torghatten has a large hole piercing through its granite rock.  The hole is 166 metre long, 10 to 30 metres wide and 75 metres high, creating an immense double-ended cave.  Legend has it that, in the far north of the ancient realm of Hålogaland, there were two troll kingdoms.  Each of the two kings had their sorrows - the Old Man was driven to despair by his wayward son, the Horseman, while the Sulis King had to contend with seven wild daughters.

One evening, the Horseman saw the seven sisters and the maiden of Leka frolicking in the sea.  Immediately he was besotted by the maiden and decided to steal her away at midnight.  As he galloped southwards, the seven sisters and the maiden fled.  The seven sisters became exhausted and collapsed at Alstahaug, but the maiden pressed on.

When the Horseman realised he could never reach her, he raised his bow in rage and shot an arrow at her.  However, the King of the Sømna mountains, the maiden's guardian, intervened in time, casting his hat into the air and deflecting the arrow, the pierced hat falling into the sea.  The maiden was saved and reached safety at Leka.  

In the midst of the chase, all had forgotten about the imminent dawn, and with the sun rising, all were turned to stone.  The seven sisters became the Syv Søstre mountain range, that we will be seeing soon on our journey further northwards, and the pierced hat became Torghatten.

Torghatten trolls!

Back from where we have come, Leka on the far left


Location: Torghatten, Brønnøy Municipality, Norway

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