Crinan Capers

The Crinan Canal opened in 1801 and connects the villages of Ardrishaig with Crinan creating a nine mile shortcut for sailors and general boat traffic, avoiding the more circuitous and exposed route around the Mull of Kintyre.

Whilst the conditions were favourable and a trip round the Mull would have been very manageable, the prospect of navigating the 15 locks with friends in the beautiful countryside was infinitely more appealing!

Stuart and I were up promptly on the Friday morning to go through the first four locks alongside another boat.  The first couple of locks always take a little bit of time to settle into the rhythm of how the boat moves in the flow of the lock water, finessing fender placement and managing the lines but soon we were in our rhythm, out of lock four and cruising down the canal to the pontoon at Lochgilphead where we would be joined by our willing conscripts, I mean crew - thanks Audrey and Jenny! - and spend the first evening.

The afternoon was spent freshening up the boat, making dinner and both enjoying a run in the local countryside.

We had sent joining instructions to Audrey and Jenny, with a google maps pin and the guidance that when you get to the petrol station you'll see the mast.  Sure enough they did and clambered up the bank to meet us, which was all the more impressive given the vast array of provisions and treats they had brought!

"Just look for the mast!"

We enjoyed a lovely evening catching up and generally looking forward to the weekend ahead. 

The following morning we jumped into action, much to the bemusement of the canal staff and promptly guided Evolene up through the remainder of the four locks going up.  Audrey and I on the shore handling the lines and assisting with the operation of the sluices and lock gates, and Jenny on the bow line and Stuart helming and tending the stern line.  

A slick team

Refuelled by a cuppa and Jenny's delicious homemade oaty cookies at the top, we decided to press on and complete the first five 'downhill' locks of the Dunardry section (this time with Audrey on the bow line and Jenny ashore) before finally bringing Evolene to a rest for the day at Bellanoch.  Sausage rolls for lunch at 2.30pm were very welcome!

Jenny retrieved her car from Lochgilphead and then met the rest of us in the pub at Crinan for a light refreshment before heading back to the boat for the evening and watermelon cocktails!*  (Did I mention that J and A brought an incredibly welcome array of goodies and whilst the watermelon was probably intended as a more healthier option, the cocktails were fab.) 

On the way down

Stuart cooked up some yummy chicken fajitas and we reflected the experiences of the day were summed up by the words 'awesome, rewarding, content and exhausting'!

Sunday was grey and damp to start with but gradually brightened up.  All of the canal is beautiful but the last third (going east to west) is particularly picturesque.  We moseyed along, admiring the scenery, pretty houses and boats along route and then reached the final two locks. 

Lock 14 was in use and so we were held temporarily in the area before hand, requiring rafting to another boat alongside.  This was the first time I had ever rafted a boat (although I had seen it done on others' videos etc) and was very satisfied when we all managed to pull it off without a hitch under Stuart's excellent guidance and supervision.

Soon lock 14 was free and we locked down into the basin where we needed to berth next to the coffee shop to await to use the sea lock (lock 15 and the gateway to the west coast) once the tide had risen at 2pm.

Into the Crinan Basin

We took the opportunity to enjoy a final coffee together, and share more fun and laughter, before Audrey and Jenny headed off back to the 'real world'!  Stuart and I loved having their company and their help was invaluable - thanks so much both!!  Audrey was even presented with a certificate at the end, prepared by the skipper, commending her excellent line handling and boat etiquette.

Happy faces!

Meanwhile our friends from the Garcia Explorer in Tarbet (Kate and Sean) had been in touch - 'Would we like to come and help crew the start of the canal with them also?  And we can make you dinner!'  On both accounts we were completely sold!

We made our way out of the sea lock shortly after 2pm and picked up a visitor mooring just outside of Crinan.  We did a bit of boat sorting and then caught a taxi back down to Ardrishaig to meet up with Kate and Sean, enjoy a further brilliant evening of socialising, delicious food, some more fizz (bonus!) and hearing and sharing more life tales.

It is always fascinating learning and experiencing how another boat works, thinking what tweaks might translate across to ours and general tips for living life aboard.  (Thanks hugely for the naan bread recipe, Sean, and the Christmas gift ideas, Kate!).

Hopefully we earnt our keep the following morning, as we assisted Kate and Sean with Chinook through the first four locks, particularly as the lovely canal staff were experiencing a few minor challenges with equipment placement.

The sun started coming out and Chinook looked stunning as she glided through the Scottish countryside.

The mighty Chinook

We disembarked Chinook at the same place that Stuart and I had spent the first evening in the canal, at Lochgilphead.  Kate and Sean would be spending the next day there where further crew would be joining them and Stuart and I were headed back to further adventures with Evolene.

* quarter of a watermelon blitzed in a nutribullet or equivalent, mixed with 2 shots of gin, 200ml tonic water and the juice of half a lime