Loch Spelve to Stornoway

As always, the Royal Highland Yacht Club muster was a great way of catching up with friends, making new connections and, particularly at this time of year, sharing plans for the season ahead which always creates excitement and anticipation! In total we reckon there were about 30 boats and around 100 people in attendance and if any boat owners who are reading this blog and sail regularly on the west coast, do have a look at their website and consider joining - Stuart and I have met so many fascinating people through this network and love being inspired by the stories shared.

RHYC muster at Loch Spelve

Socialising complete, for the time being at least(!), we pressed north on the Sunday (4th May), up through the sound of Mull and across to Kilchoan Bay.  Conditions were variable and we found ourselves doing a mixture of motoring, motor-sailing and sailing, but it felt good to be on way and getting some miles under the keel.

Kilchoan Bay is a pretty village to the East and Ardnamurchan point and whilst the anchorage was not quite as protected as we thought it might be, the anchor dug in well and held firm and over the course of the evening the wind gently eased.

The morning was glorious, albeit with no wind, even for the large cruising chute that we had retrieved from storage under the bed and moved into the forward cabin for easier access.  It is always a consideration whether to stay put and wait for the wind to come or press on with motor and the outcome will vary depending on different factors including future weather forecasts and personal preferences at the time.  For us, at this point in time, we were keen to press on and explore new ground and the longer term forecast was looking promising for heading further north later in the week.  Therefore decision made, motor on and another lovely, gentle cruise in stunning sunshine, northwest towards the beautiful island of Canna.

Motoring mode - excuse the mess!

With the conditions so calm it makes it much easier to spot any wildlife breaking the surface.  That said, when Stuart raised the binoculars to pinpoint Mark Zuckerberg's superyacht Launchpad, he was certainly not expecting to see the very distinctive dorsal fin of a large male orca in the distance!  A superb and thrilling sight to see and whilst we weren't able to capture it on camera this time, we look forward to seeing more hopefully in future weeks!

As we crept round the headland of Canna we could see and feel the wildlife of Scotland gently emerging into spring life.  A stag surveyed us regally from the ridgeline of Rum, we passed through a shoal of young jellyfish gently wafting in the currents and we saw our first puffin of the season bobbing in the water beside the cliffs of Canna, where it would reunite with its mate of previous years and re-establish its home for their family for the next few months.

With the anchor set in the very pretty bay of Canna, we dinghied ashore to stretch our legs and walk up to the lighthouse on the headland.  From there we could see the stunning ridge line of the Cuillin of Skye, creating the most beautiful silhouette in the distance.  Seals were relaxing in the afternoon sun, although one had clearly had recently enjoyed a successful fishing expedition and was munching heartily on its rather substantial gains - which looked like a skate or suchlike.  A couple of gulls were waiting close by optimistically for any leftover scraps! 

The Flying Dutchman and the Cuillin mountains of Skye

We returned to Evolene via a quick trip to the local Canna Cafe where we sampled the very tasty locally-brewed Jack pale ale and then settled in for an evening of relaxing in the residual evening sunlight, watching a couple more boats join us in the anchorage.

Canna

The following day we were up early and all set for our next destination - the Shiant Isles! This small archipelago lies approximately four miles off the coast of Lewis and 12 miles from the northern tip of Skye.  The islands are considered one of the most important breeding colonies for seabirds in Europe, with around 10% of UK puffins and 7% of UK razorbills breeding there every year.  The islands are privately owned but visitors welcome (for details see www.shiantisles.net/visit) and if anyone is keen to read more about the island's history we would thoroughly recommend the book 'Sea Room' by Adam Nicolson.

Whilst it was a bit of a motor again, we did get the majestic cruising chute out for a couple of hours and 58 miles later we arrived at the islands.  With the invaluable guidance of Bob Bradfield's Antares charts we set the anchor and sat mesmerised by the sight around us.  Thousands and thousands of razorbills and puffins swarmed the skies and bobbed on the water around us.  The air was alive with a cacophony of excited bird chatter, like we were visitors at one large massive social get together!

Evolene anchored in the Shiant Islands

Birdlife!

Puffins are very entertaining.  They are the complete antithesis of another favourite bird of ours, the gannet.  Whilst one is exquisitely elegant in flight and effortlessly streamlined when entering the water, the other is endearingly cute, always seems haphazard at landing with its little orange webbed feet splayed out, and looks to be simply ducking for apples when it transitions from bobbing on the surface to catching its dinner.

Puffins and a Razorbill

It really was a magical anchorage, with guillemots, shags and five golden eagles also very clearly present.  We explored the southern island, Eilean an Tighe, and ventured inside the sole bothy on the archipelago that Sir Compton Mackenzie had built (renovated from an old shepherd's cottage) in the late 1920s to use in the summer months as a space to escape and write in peace and solitude.

Shiant Bothy

On Wednesday afternoon we departed, with the commitment to return again one year, and continued northward.  The wildlife continued its impressive show, with a minke whale gliding past at one point.  That evening we anchored in the 'Witch's Hole' - a delightfully secluded and protected anchorage in Loch Mariveg on the Isle of Lewis, about 8 miles south of Stornoway.  Stuart was able to capture some brilliant drone footage, adapting our large solar panel at the rear of the boat into a temporary drone launchpad!  Not quite the ship/helicopter operations that he aspired to make a career of but not a bad alternative!

The Witches Hole anchorage

The next morning we ate our breakfast in the cockpit before readying the boat and ourselves for the short hop up to Stornoway, for a couple of 'spa days'!  These are what we are now terming the opportunity for sprucing up the boat, ourselves and enjoying some land luxury temporarily (and a little bit more socialising!)