Reine to Svolvær, including Nusfjord

21/6/25 to 26/6/25

Whilst midsummer's day in Norway is the 24th June (St Hans-dag), many of the celebrations take place on the closest Saturday, which this year was the 21st.  A few weeks previously we had seen a massive bonfire being constructed on our way into Ålesund.  It turns out this one is famous for being one of the tallest in the world and is built entirely by hand by local youngsters (for more details see Visit Norway - Ålesund bonfire).

The celebrations in Reine were rather more mooted but there was a very pleasant buzz in the village and the local bistro had a country and western band playing in their beer garden.  We were joined by a friend whom we had met a couple of nights previously and enjoyed pre-dinner drinks aboard his boat, Gogarth, dinner on ours, then a wander around the village soaking in the evening sun and ambience, before returning to Evolene for whisky and cards!  We managed to watch the sun travel across the horizon until just before midnight when it disappeared behind one of the mountains to the north.  The light that it cast was golden and beautiful.

Midnight sun in Reine

Reine Harbour

The following morning it was time to get going again.  There was no wind but it was brilliantly sunny and given that it was only a short hop up to our next destination of Nusfjord we decided to turn off the motor, let Evolene drift for a bit, and get out the fishing rods!  In less than five minutes, Stuart had caught two pollock!  We had rigged his rod with a smaller lure and he was casting in slightly shallower depth and we had left the other rod with the larger lure on at approx 80 metres.  We decided on one more fish and very soon the deeper, larger lure started to signal it had a catch.  Shortly after we had a third, rather substantial (~90cm long) pollock aboard!

Dinner for a few nights

Whilst I struggle with killing the fish, which we do as effectively and humanely as possible, I really like that it is a far more sustainable way to obtain food than from the supermarket which invariably involves more road/air miles, preservatives and plastic.  Furthermore, as we found out later that evening and for the next few days, the meat itself was delicious.

Lunch!

With Evolene converted from a fishing boat back to a sailing yacht, we continued up the coast to the delightful village and hotel resort of Nusfjord.  The pontoon for berthing is right in the centre of the hotel complex but you wouldn't realise that at first, such is the beautiful way in which the hotel owners and village have managed to preserve the historical context and heritage of the buildings and integrated these seamlessly into providing luxury accommodation for visiting guests.  Furthermore, people can visit for the day and explore the resort, visiting the various buildings that showcase all the trades that were previously integral to the running of the village when fishing was its primary industry (including the smoke house, blacksmiths and sawmill).  The hotel also offers a cafe, restaurant, bakery and spa, and a variety of activities for visiting tourists.  A couple of years ago the BBC produced a programme on Nusfjord as part of its 'Amazing Hotels' series and it is well worth a watch BBC - Amazing Hotels - Nusfjord .

Nusfjord village

We enjoyed a walk ashore, exploring the surroundings and the nearby headland.  The boat we had rafted next to (a Challenge 72) was a UK forces adventure training boat and it was great to catch up with fellow sailors from the UK, with Stuart knowing the first mate through navy connections, and also have a look round a boat that is very different to ours and see the set up of providing accommodation and facilities for a crew of 15.

Feeling small next to Adventure of Hornet

The next day was the 23rd June (midsummer's eve in Norway) and we had planned another hop up the coast, this time to a beautifully secluded anchorage near Finnstad (68° 08.3N 013° 45.0E).  The weather was stunning and we spent most of the afternoon in our shorts and t-shirts.  Stuart got his first swim of the trip in and was able to stay in long enough (in the still very cold water!) to clean the waterline of Evolene.  Whilst I wasn't inclined that afternoon, I did feel I was missing out and was in the water also soon after the following morning!  The evening was very relaxed and we watched the gentle hum of life, both in and around the water of passing birdlife, and ashore as small bonfires were being lit and families were enjoying the midsummer weather.

A beautiful morning in Finnstad

The past few days have been glorious for sailing, with calm seas and mostly steady wind of 12 to 20knots and we've been steadily winding our way east and north.  The night of the 24th was another very pretty secluded anchorage at Hopen (68° 12.0N 014° 20.6E), this time with a sea eagle providing a majestic flypast as we left the next day.  However, with a need to do some laundry and top up the larder we stopped at Svolvær - the largest town in the Lofoten Islands.  Whilst the laundry and shower facilities are fairly average, I was very impressed by the three large, nearby supermarkets and I think, aside from a few, fresh food top-ups, we will now be set and provisioned until our next major town planned spot of Bodø, which won't be until approx 20th July.  All set, therefore, for lots more exploring between now and then!

Flat seas and good wind - champagne sailing!