Torghatten to Nesna

13/6/25 to 15/6/25

The area that we currently in is reported to be a favourite for Norwegian sailors, even more so than the Lofoten Islands, and it is easy to see why.  Whilst the current overcast conditions hide the full extent of its beauty we have enjoyed a superb couple of days exploring as we wind further north, weaving in and out of the skerries (this time under sail!) to Vega and having a blast of a downwind sail to Nesna.

Sailing through skerries

There is an incredible scope and variety of places to spend the night.  Several friends had very kindly provided us with lists of anchorages and places to berth but, now that we're out here, we can see that the options are practically infinite!  

By and large we prefer to anchor.  It costs nothing, the boat will swing so that it always has the bow to the wind (providing shelter to the cockpit area), our batteries are well set up so that we will invariably have sufficient power to boil the kettle and cook with, we usually have a limited supply of hot water from earlier motoring - enough for a brief shower each if wanted and do the washing up, and we can heat the saloon through our diesel boat heater if required.

Perfectly still in Vega

The downside of anchoring is that our whole home (at the moment!) is tethered by a chain to a piece of metal (the anchor) that we aim to dig into the seabed successfully, in order to keep us safe for the night!  Sounds precarious?  At times it can feel like that, particularly when you are woken by a howling wind and the boat rocking in the waves!  But we also have a 'anchor alarm system' that we use to monitor the boat's position using GPS.  Although it does occasionally throw up a spurious GPS location, startling us into action, before realising we can stand down and relax once more!  Therefore, all in all, it doesn't always make for the most peaceful night's sleep...

But then again, does anywhere always?!  Marinas on the flipside, provide a safe haven where you are tethered to a pontoon with several lines (ropes), usually protected from swell, electricity is unlimited, we can top up on water, use available facilities (that can include showers, laundry, clubhouses, dependent on location), and walk ashore with ease.  However, they do cost (albeit usually pretty reasonable, although it soon adds up if you're doing this for any length of time!), it is not always that quiet either (rope, fender movement and passing human or boat traffic) and there is clearly not the same beautiful feeling of being fully immersed in the wilderness.  As a comparison we pay approximately £20-30 to berth for a night in a marina in Norway whereas in Scotland it is usually £40-50.  

Nesna

Each have their merits and together provide great cruising opportunities, and we've been very impressed with how good each have been during our time so far.  

After another great couple of days of sailing, taking us to a pretty anchorage on the north west corner of Vega and then goose-winging (when the main sail is to one side of the boat and the foresail to the other) to Nesna, we find ourselves in another attractive marina.  Whilst in the pilot book, it hasn't been highlighted in the Cruising Association App as yet (another tool that we use to identify places to stay for the night) and it is a real gem.  There is a clubhouse with excellent facilities, a supermarket nearby and easily accessible trails out the back of the village to the hill behind.  

Getting some exercise!

Looking down at Nesna

With the weather looking pretty damp for the next few days we are currently planning on a few shorter hops up the coast but will keep you posted...! 

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