Harstad to Bodø - flexing plans and catching up with friends!

5/7/25 to 10/7/25

These few days very much developed on the hoof!  Initially we had thought we would continue south eastward, round the top of the horseshoe where the Lofoten Islands run into Vestfjorden and then the mainland, following the coastline back down to Bodø, and with that in mind we headed south out of Harstad.  Winds were light and given that we planned only to go a short distance (9 miles) we took our time, occasionally drifting, under sail.  This worked very much in Stuart's favour as he is a bit of a Formula 1 fan and, with this weekend's race at Silverstone, he was able to watch qualifying as we coasted along to Store Rogla.  All was going to plan until the final exciting seconds which coincided with the time to anchor!  However, the bay was large and anchoring straightforward and soon we had established our home once again for the evening, enjoying the glorious, golden sunlight and continuing stunning scenery.  

Store Rogla and the midnight sun

Nothing beats sleeping at anchor when conditions are calm and peaceful.  For the first time since reaching Norway it was warm and dry enough that we could keep our aft cabin portlights (windows) open and we both slept solidly.  I think the earlier sauna endeavours (and Stuart's morning run)  may have helped with that!  Needing to await the afternoon south-going tide, we enjoyed a leisurely morning in the sunshine.  Stuart completed a few more boat jobs and I did some yoga on the aft deck which was delightful, albeit flagged up some very tight calf muscles!  

Boat yoga - aft deck is perfect for it!

Similar to the day previously we started coasting southwards again, this time with the actual Grand Prix race in the background providing some considerable entertainment - we were grateful that we didn't have the rain that Silverstone did!  

No matter where we go in Norway the connection of this country to the sea is so very apparent.  We continue to be astounded by Norway's ability to sustain and champion costal living.  What would feel like isolated communities are well served by road and sea connections and local amenities.  It may be due to better public sector investment (in a large part due to Norway's sovereign wealth fund), better preserved fishing industry, cultural factors or the absence in history of events such as the clearances that occurred in Scotland.  We're not sure, but seeing how Norway revels in its coastline is a delight.

There are small properties, many with their own pontoons, everywhere!

Our anchorage for this evening, towards the southern end of Tjedsundet, was perhaps, for once, not quite as postcard picturesque as other locations but it had great holding and for the first time in weeks we were joined by another boat later in the evening.

By now we had to decide whether we were turning east or west as we exited south out of Tjeldsundet and we ended up plumping for west  as there were a few more places we wanted to see in the Lofoten coast.  We headed towards where we would complete the loop at the start of our Trollfjord exploration.  En route we attempted to catch another fish but this time were both unsuccessful.  We then wound our way through various skerries in the Selsøya archipelago before finding the Vestbygd Boat Club pontoon in the 'Hullet' (Hole).  Whilst Evolene was probably slightly heavy for the pontoon, it was another beautifully calm evening and we had no concerns about berthing alongside.  

Vestbygd Boat Club pontoon

With yet another light wind day forecasted (not complaining - the accompanying sun and warmth have been very welcome!) we thought we might stretch our legs ashore and slipped our lines to hop a short distance west to nestle back into the Lofoten coastline and find a neighbouring hill to summit.  At this point we were not entirely sure of where to go for the next couple of weeks until Stuart's brother and family joined us (so much choice!).  However, our uncertainties were soon solved when Kirsty, a friend from home, who had been keen to come and visit us but it was looking unlikely, suddenly texted to the effect of... 'was tempted to hop on a plane today...'!  Cue a lot of positive encouragement from us both and within an hour she had fixed plans and flights booked to arrive in Bodø the next day - yeyyy!

Bodø is a popular location for yachts rendezvousing with crew.  The airport is only a 12 minute walk from the marina and Bodø is only a short distance across to the Lofoten Islands.  From our lunchtime anchorage we were 63 miles from Bodø and on looking at the weather forecast decided that the winds were more favourable to make way to Bodø that afternoon rather than the following morning.  The walk would have to wait until another time!

Not a bad lunchtime view

With the sun still shining and the water flat as a pancake, we raised the anchor and headed south for the next chapter in our adventures, excited to be able to share these experiences with Kirsty and explore more new territory.  It was a steady motor sail and after four or five hours we were back weaving our way through mainland skerries.

Bodø-bound

From Marine Traffic, we knew our friends from the Royal Highland Yacht Club aboard Polaris were still in the Bodø area and, content we were making good progress, we arranged to meet up with them in another beautiful anchorage at Sørøya, about 18 miles north of Bodø.  A sea eagle stood like a sentry on the island at the entrance to the channel where our friends had anchored and no sooner had we dropped our anchor and dug it in (to make sure it was secure), we were in the dinghy rowing across to Polaris.

It was lovely seeing them again - the last time we had seen each other was back in Ålesund - and to catch up on respective news.  They have plans to head further north before leaving their boat in the Trondheim area for the winter, but it sounded hopeful that our routes would cross again in another few weeks.

The next day was a short hop down to Bodø which, to first look at, is one of the more industrial cities that we have visited.  However, once Evolene was cosied into the marina (it was surprisingly busy when we arrived but thankfully we were able to raft alongside a Swedish boat whom we had met a few times before in Rørvik, Trollfjord and Harstad), the city felt much more inviting and there was a warm, lovely buzz from the quayside cafes surrounding the marina in the evening.

Settled in Bodø's guest harbour

Kirsty, arrived shortly after midnight and we walked up to the (very!) local airport to meet her.  Not only was it an incredibly convenient location for us but arriving at a time when we were able to be out and about to enjoy the midnight sun made it all rather special.  We always love having Kirsty aboard and were both so pleased that she could come out and join us, the 24 hour notice making it all the more impressive and fun!  

First time at an airport for a while!

Now to show her some of our Norway life!