Oban to Ardfern

30/8/25 to 8/9/25

Sometimes the weather at this time of year on the Scottish west coast can be glorious and we've had some super weeks sailing in early September.  This year, however, it has been much more unsettled, with blow after blow coming through and plenty of accompanying rain.  

We made the most of our four nights in Kerrera, catching up with Mark and Asha from Altor of Down, meeting new friends, heading out for dinner one evening in Oban, availing ourselves of the industrial-sized washing machine and dryer at the marina, enjoying yoga in the morning - thanks Tanya! - and getting out for very soggy cross-country runs!

Heading back to Kerrera after a meal in Oban

Impromptu music session in The Waypoint bar at Kerrera

With a short window of more settled weather appearing on the forecast for the 3rd September, we slipped our lines the day before and headed a short distance south to the very popular anchorage of Puilladobhrain (pool of the otter).  It is a lovely sheltered nook and that evening we were joined by six other boats in the anchorage, including our friends aboard Altor of Down.  Another fun evening ensued in the company of Mark and Asha and as dusk descended, one by one the anchor lights of the surrounding boats gradually lit up.  

Puilladobhrain before another 6 boats arrived!

September 3rd is our wedding anniversary and we enjoyed an exploration ashore, following the shoreline round to Ardencaple Bay and then crossing over the small hill to the east to reach Clachan Bridge, also known as the 'Bridge over the Atlantic'.  After the Jacobite rising of 1745, wearing a kilt was forbidden and therefore the residents of the Isle of Seil used the Tigh An Truish Inn, that is located next to the bridge, to change from their trousers into their customary kilts when returning to the island.  Tigh An Truish means "House of the Trousers"!

Clachan Bridge

We stopped for a coffee and a small bite of lunch in the inn and bumped into a couple of cruisers who had also moored in the anchorage.  It turned out that they knew Stuart's cousin very well, working closely together in Plymouth - it can be a very small world at times!

With our legs stretched and refreshment treats enjoyed, we headed back to Evolene for a relaxing afternoon, followed by another delicious dinner aboard Altor of Down.  Asha can also give the most wonderful hand and foot massages and I melted into contentment!  

The following day, after waiting for the south going tide to commence, we weighed a rather muddy anchor and then set off down the coast towards an anchorage beside one of the many 'Goat Islands' that exist around Scotland.  This one is 2 miles south of Ardfern and provides good holding and more pretty surroundings.  Once we had rounded the corner off Ardencaple we could unfurl the sails and reap the benefits of a 10-15 knot wind from the west to glide effortlessly south once more.  What with our recent transit of the Caledonian canal and having been weather-bound in the Oban area for several days, despite the brief sail we experienced into Kerrera, it felt like ages since we had properly enjoyed the wind on the canvas and it was very satisfying to make the most of that small weather window of superb sailing conditions.

Champagne sailing!

After another welcome night at anchor we needed to wait for Ardfern to determine where we would berth (as it was the Royal Highland Yacht Club (RHYC) muster that weekend) and so we passed the time catching up on the blog, reading, doing a jigsaw and then, when I decided I needed a little bit more activity, jumping off the bow into the sea for a swim.  That would ordinarily not be that remarkable but we were out of hot water having used it for showers the night before so I knew it was going to be a cold rinse down afterwards!  At least cold shower water still feels slightly warm when compared to the temperature of the sea!  

At lunchtime we had the go ahead to proceed the short distance north to berth in Ardfern and no sooner had we done so, we were hugely enjoying bumping into with fellow RHYC members and also other cruisers whom we had met on our travels.  

Ardfern marina

On the Saturday morning we walked a couple of miles across the hill behind Ardfern to visit Craobh Haven marina, where we had kept Evolene previously, and it was super to see Sue, who is integral to running the marina and always a delight to catch up with, and hear about all the exciting plans afoot.  The marina had been up for sale and has now been bought by the Norton family of Miss Tippy.  We gather that they have wasted no time in making improvements and are about to start refurbishing the Lord of the Isles pub too.  We are really fond of Craobh Haven, having been well looked after for a couple of seasons there, so it is great to hear that it looks set to thrive again in future.

Back in Ardfern (another lovely marina with superb facilities) it was time to get ready for the evening's muster!  Stuart and I have really enjoyed meeting and getting to know RHYC members over the past few years since joining.  The club is super-relaxed and it's great hearing about others' adventures, including the occasional mishap!  There are so many variables involved in sailing it never goes 100% smoothly, and learning from others is always invaluable in helping to refine your own boat set up, passage plans or sailing set-up.  With huge thanks to the committee for organising another great get together.  And if anyone is interested in sailing on the West coast and would like more details about the club please either get in touch or look on the club's webpage at Royal Highland Yacht Club.  

Great to see the RHYC crowd again

The weather was once again inclement on Sunday so it was a bit of a 'down day' but soon the sun was shining again on Monday morning and we were on the move once again.  The forecast was such that it was going to make much more sense to head back to the Clyde via the Crinan Canal (instead of sailing round the Mull of Kintyre) and therefore we started the motor in anticipation of yet more Crinan capers to enjoy!

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